This project involved combining a separate WC toilet and bathroom refurbishment. In most cases, as it was with this job, the wall between the toilet and bathroom was non-supporting. It was a fairly standard 1930’s 3 bedroom semi detached house in the heart of Claygate village. Not only do you gain the space of the toilet, you also can incorporate the space on the landing and bring the new door out to square off the new room.
After creating some bespoke CAD plans and CGI plans, it was decided that we move the toilet to accommodate the new walk-in shower enclosure. There was a small window above the old toilet which we booked up. It isn’t a very good idea to have water splashing onto the inside of a window, even if it is Upvc so we matched the brick externally, insulated the cavity and aqua boarded the interior wall ready for tiling.
The old cast iron soil vent pipe was removed and replaced with plastic. Most of these old cast iron pipes are getting past their best now so it is always a good idea to replace, especially as it is much easier to connect onto plastic how and in the future.
When the old bathroom and WC were stripped out, we revealed some water damage beneath the floorboards. When we carry out bathroom re-fits, we always fit the old floor boards. This allows us to inspect for any damage and you should never tile on to old floor boards anyway. We fit additional structural timber pieces between the joists or ‘noggins.’ We then lay 18mm structural timber ply wood onto the joists. An additional layer of “Ditramatting” ensures there will be no movement in the sub floor. I would say in over 95% of the bathrooms we fit, there is evidence of sub floor movement. This can create many problems. Often the tiles or at least grouting will crack, which is both unsightly but can also allow water ingress. The other common problem is that if the floor moves under weight, the bath or shower tray will move when in use and allow water between the silicone seal. This only becomes evident when water appears below in the ceiling, as when you step out of the shower or bath, the tray or bath, rebounds with the flexible silicone seal so it is hard to spot any evidence.
We always uses copper pipe work when re-fitting a bathroom as it is superior to plastic. Plastic is susceptible to rodent damage and the connections are not always reliable. Once a soldered copper joint has been tested, you can generally really on it for over 50 years.
Because the bathroom was over a reading room or study, we installed acoustic insulation in the floor to help deaden the sound. The ceilings were plaster boarded and plastered as standard on our installations.
We were fitting very large porcelain tiles so the correct preparation and installation techniques are essential. The external corners were ‘mitred’ i.e. we cut 45 degree edges so we didn’t need to use tile edge trims. It is also essential that the correct rapid set, flexible, water proof porcelain tile adhesive is used. If not, these tiles could literally fall off. The most common tiles we fit are porcelain. They are very durable, though sometimes difficult to cut and certainly difficult to drill!
When choosing a grout is in important to remember a few key pints. Firstly it needs to be flexible, and waterproof. Always choose a well known and trusted brand like Map or BAL. It is a good idea to choose a colour to match or compliment the tiles and if possible go as dark as possible as it will be more resistant to long term staining. As I mentioned earlier, in most cases tiles are fitted with an edging trim. This come in many shapes and sizes but we think the neatest is the brushed aluminium finish or a cloud match finish in a flat profile. These are unobtrusive to the eye and easy to instal.
A nice feature we often include is what we call a “niche.” This is a recessed ‘box’ or shelf in the wall to allow storage of bottles etc. It is a big improvement over the wire shower basket and we sometimes add LED feature lighting for a “wow” effect.
The bath we installed was free standing, i.e. it was not attached to the wall. The taps were the same, a column or floor mounted tap. You do need a good amount of space to accommodate a free standing bath as you don’t want it looking too cramped and you you to leave enough room to be able to easily clean behind it. There are semi free standing baths available where one side and end are straight to allow you to fit it against a wall in a corner but retain the curved front and claw feet of a full free standing bath,
We installed a slim line, stone resin shower tray which are the most solid available. You don’t want any flex which you can get from an acrylic tray which can be creaky and more prone to leaking because of the inherent movement.
The shower valve was recessed into a stud wall near the entrance of the walk in enclosure. This both looks good and allows you to turn the shower on without your arm getting cold water all over it!
When choosing a toilet, there are many different types to choose. Your most basic toilet is a closed couple where the cistern sits on top of the pan. That can then also be “back to wall” where all the pipe work is hidden. A bit more fiddly to fit but looks much better. You then have the separate pan and hidden cistern. The pan can be floor or wall hung and the cistern hidden within a false wall or boxing. The client chose the latter.
Overall, another very happy Claygate client!
42 Hurst Rd, Molesey,
East Molesey KT8 9AG,
United Kingdom
Phone: +447947040890